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“I can categorically say that during my career, I surfed more than anyone else in the world… I surfed more than anyone else in the world because I was so stoked.”
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FRED HEMMINGS
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“In my opinion... surfers are the best athletes in the world. Surfers have the bravado of bullfighters, they ride waves that could kill you... they have the agility of gymnasts... and they have tremendous endurance.”
MIKE HYNSON
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“I was an aggressive surfer. I try to be as much as a gentleman as I can but...you’re out there, I’m out there. Who’s gonna catch it? I’m gonna catch it.””
SKIP FRYE
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“I’d never been so stoked or so enthused about boards or board shaping or just the feel of boards as when I started on the 11 ft board, in the 90s. The feeling and the glide. I think you get tighter to a wave with a big board, if you have a perfect wave, than with a short board.”
PAUL STRAUCH JR.
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“Everybody who had the opportunity to know Duke Kahanamoku personally would speak to that same significant part of his demeanor which is you felt welcoming when in his presence. He always had a twinkle in his eye. He was always focused on you.”
“Be patient. Be observant. Keep your eye on the other guys in the water too because they may need your help. It’s not all about you. It’s about surfing in harmony not just with nature, but with everyone else you are surfing with.””
JOEY CABELL
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“I had this idea to swim the Na Pali Coast and not take anything but a pocket knife and goggles so our eyes wouldn’t burn. And that was it. Nothing else... It so happened Mike Doyle was visiting from the East Coast I asked him ‘You wanna go, we’re leaving tomorrow.’ And he said ‘Ok, I’m going.”
GREG NOLL
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“Surfing is an odd thing. People can try to put it in the category of a sport. And it’s just not. It’s a lifestyle, it’s something that gets under your skin.”
RANDY RARICK
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“If you can adopt Aloha and give Aloha, you will get Aloha. To me that’s really important, one of the messages that surfing does spread, its a universal sport... no matter who you are, where you are from, what language, what ethnicity you were, once you’re in the water, you’re the same... You’re riding the one medium that we all share together.”
“I saw this whole surfboard change while I was there [in Australia]... It went from 9 foot boards to — by the time I left — down to 7 foot boards already. In that one year it dropped 2 feet and I was right there with the architects of the change.”
GERRY LOPEZ
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“Uncle Ernie gave us this warning: ‘Be careful of parking lots. Don’t spend any time in parking lots. Everything bad goes down in parking lots.’ And we didn’t have the heart to tell him that our entire life — our absolute total life — revolved around the parking lots at Ala Moana.”