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“The biggest waves I ever rode were on the Rocket — Sunset, Laniakea, Makaha Point, and the biggest day of any in my memory was January 12, 1959 at Point Makaha. I had so much confidence in this board that I never felt, once I was trimmin

“Growing up in Hawaii, i learned from Duke Kahanamoku how to live with Aloha. He was really a great man. We all considered him the greatest surfer, but he would laugh at that and go, “No, no. I’m an ambassador of Aloha.”

“In Hawai’i we greet friends, loved ones and strangers with Aloha, which means with love. Aloha is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawai’i renowned as the world’s center of understanding a

“Surfing is the sport of kings and should be practiced as such.” Ernie Tanaka
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#podaloha #aloha #surfing #surf #surflegen

“Stop worrying about what you don't know. Focus instead on what you already know even if they don't add up to much. Because you never know what you can achieve with what you already know until you take actions.” Mark Foo
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Mark Foo,

“I came along at the time of the Gidget movies when the sport kind of exploded. The U.S. Championships were held at Huntington Beach in 1970, when I won and ABC’s Wide World of Sports covered it live. It was the real beginning for the spo

“Surfing has been my life. It’s all I’ve done. It really doesn’t matter how big or small the waves are. When you are out there surfing you are really competing with yourself. Let’s say you are in a bad mood and you go ou

“As I float in the ocean atop my surfboard in the lineup - the area where you wait for and anticipate catching waves - I see a grouping of waves approach from about 300 yards out, beginning as a series of swells or a “set.” Each ind

“Usually based on the size of surf, I prefer the fin up forward for maximum looseness without loosing any control on turns. This board is extremely fast but surfs like a much shorter board if there's wave size to give you wave surface area to u

“Sunset has always been my favorite spot, and probably the reason that I like it the most is because it’s so difficult. It’s a challenge, and you can have good days and bad days. But when you get a good wave, it’s never boring

“I went to a family picnic celebrating our great grandfather. And I was looking at some old pictures, and there was this one of my great grandfather’s father-in-law. He was standing there at Baby Queens, where I stood up and rode my first

“A surf spot we loved was San Onofre, just north of Camp Pendleton. The older guys who had learned to surf in Hawaii favored San Onofre because they thought it was a lot like Waikiki, with really long rides. What I loved most about San Onofre,

“I was born in Honolulu, Hawaii, in Waikiki. I first started surfing at the Waikiki Wall. I had a little piece of a foam board and I used to push myself on the side of the wall. I’d ride it all the way to the beach. I loved the ocean. I o

"Makaha is like Cheers…everybody knows your name. Nothing changes here. It's like being in a time warp. Everybody's moving slower than anywhere else on the island. And the thing is, around Makaha, we’re all connected to the soul par

“I’m in church every day. When I go out in the ocean, I look up in the sky and I look in the water and I look all around and see whales, dolphins, turtles. What a wonderful place we live in, if people would only open their eyes and look a

“I sometimes wonder if the dream was what we created or what everyone thinks the dream is. If we didn't film The Endless Summer do you think there would still be a quest for the perfect wave? Do you think anybody would even care? I didn't parti

"With Butch Van Artsdalen you saw stuff that you didn’t really realize at the time was going to be the blueprint for the future generations of surfers to live by and emulate. I think it’s fair to say that he was the guy who started a

“To ride Waimea when it’s big, is like stepping into an open elevator shaft. There is no place to go but straight down.” Fred Hemmings
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Fred Hemmings, Waimea. Photograph Courtesy of Fred Hemmings
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“You can never say it’s the “perfect wave.” It’s the hardest thing to judge. Once and a while it will come to you. Like, the wave’s going to defeat you. One time in Makaha I took off on the biggest wave you ever sa

“The high point of my surfing life was the first time I rode a 20-footer at Makaha. Without a doubt. It was my first winter over here, and at that point I really had no business being out in big surf, but I was just so determined to do it. And